POSSIBLE USE OF CHEMICAL ETHER GENERATORS
FOR DROUGHT REMOVAL

by Herman Heinke
Article Sourced From: http://rexresearch.com/meinke/1meinke.htm#chemethgen

Before attempting to use the following information you should read “The Orgone Accumulator Handbook” by James DeMeo as well as CORE (Vol VI, #1-4, July 1954) by Dr Wilhelm Reich.

You might have asked yourself just what is a chemical ether generator. It is actually nothing more than an orgone accumulator initially discovered by Dr Wilhelm Reich. There are four basic types of accumulators: box, cone, blanket, or cylinder. Their common basis is that they are always constructed with a metallic inside with the outer layer of organic material. The two layers together are referred to as only one accumulator layer. We have personally constructed functioning models with as many as 33 layers. After 30-33 layers they start to work differently. Refer to Figure 1.

Figure 1

There are two ways that accumulators can be used. Most commonly, specimens such as plants or animals are placed directly inside it. In this case, the box or blanket type is utilized but cylinder shapes also have been used. Another way is to take the enrgy directly out of the accumulator and send it to the specimen itself. This latter method is employed in construction of the chemical ether generator. A typical approach in its construction is to make a 5-20 layer orgone accumulator, making a small hole through all the layers. A small flexible tube can then be inserted directly inside, thereby drawing out the orgone energy from the multiplayer box. This tube is then aimed right at the specimen. Most of the time a metal cone is connected to the outside end of the metal tube. Both tube and cone should be coated with a good flexible organic insulator to prevent orgone energy from escaping from the sides. This particular coating then creates a long, one-layer cylinder-type Orgone Accumulator (oraccu). Refer to Fig. 2.

Figure 2 / Figure 3

In “The Cancer Biopathy”, Dr Reich describes his research showing that higher temperatures of 0.2 to 0.5 degrees occurred inside his accumulators versus the room temperature. These particular accumulators were tested inside a building. Similarly, accumulators put directly on the ground showed temperature increases of +2 to +5 C. On summer days with a strong sun, temperature differences of +20 were not uncommon. The important concept to understand is that the effect is 5-50 times greater in an outdoor accumulator placed into the ground versus one indoors. At this point, try to imagine a hollow tube connected to the top of this underground accumulator with a cone placed open-ended at the tube’s end so it’s not blocked. An open ended galvanized steel funnel will work well. Insulate both tube and cone, as previously described. Instead of directing orgone energy to a specimen, aim it directly upward to the sky. Refer to Fig. 3.

If you were to construct the 10-ply oraccu as described in DeMeo’s book, burying it in the ground and pointing its funnel to the sky, the results may not be as promising since most of the energy is meant to stay within the box. To get the energy up to cloud level, its tube would have to be 10-100 ft long to add enough orgone to the sky to make it useful for increasing the probability of rain.

Another problem with an underground oraccu is the need to make them waterproof, for the stainless steel wool will rust, and if the organic material gets wet, the oraccu will cease to function altogether. Fiberglass seems to be the least affected by humidity.

The construction of the chemical ether generator is pictured in Fig. 4. We soldered three 6″ diameter steel furnace pipes to create a total length of 66″. A 6″ copper half-sphere (bowl) then was brazed/soldered to one end of the tube. See Fig. 4A. Next, we applied 10 coats of shellac over the entire outside of both the tube and bowl. A coating of ¼-1/2″ beeswax was then applied to the sphere only and 24″ up the sides of the tube. See Fig. 4B.

Figure 4 / 4A /4B

After drying, we added six more layers of oraccu layers to the beeswax area only. The first layer was fine steel wool (Figs. 4C and 5). It was secured with polypropylene tape. Next we wrapped ¼” of fiberglass and secured this with polypropylene tape. At this stage, if so desired, you can apply a thin layer of unrefined melted beeswax. Now the entire tube is coated with paint to prevent weathering and protect it from rain. An application of titanium oxide enamel paint is recommended.

Figure 4C / Fig. 5

Next, dig a hole in the ground deep enough to accommodate the end of the tube and the following materials. Pour a layer of 3″ of white quartz sand followed by four layers of galvanized steel screen (1/8″ mesh). Then a 20″ piece of silk cloth is placed on the top. The tube rests on this base and the coated portion sits just above the soil line. The diameter of the hole is 24″ so that a galvanized steel cylinder will just fit into the hole. It has a protective lid of pine wood with a hole in the center to allow it to fit over the tube. The lid is 28″ wide. Both sides are coated with 3 layers of a mixture of shellac and beeswax containing 5% Calcium Silicate, 10% micronized silica, and 85% beeswax. The side of the steel cylinder that contacts the lid is coated with two layers of shellac. The rest of the cylinder is not coated and should be kept clean. The top of the lid is coated with three layers of shellac followed by three layers of titanium oxide paint (peanut oil base).

Before setting the device into the ground, place a steel cap over the end. Never remove it until just before using the device; use a wooden pole about 10 ft long. For safety it is recommended to stay at least 20 ft away.

This device is capable of giving the sky enough orgone to affect a 3-mile radius within hours of its operation. Coupled with use of the new breed of cloudbusters we can remove the DOR and restore the earth and sky to health.

Note that to make the beeswax mixture stronger and more balanced, the following may be added: 0.2 grams of Biodynamic Formula #501 and 0.01 grams of diamond dust. Up to 22 grams of micronized silica has been tried with good results to further accumulate orgone.

There are some important concepts to understand when working with these energies. For instance, Nature does not just plant a forest, allowing it to grow to full size in a few weeks and then suddenly remove it. Likewise, people should not point cloudbusters at the sky to draw out energy and then remove it in less than two weeks. Cloubusters cannot be used in such a manner without throwing Nature out of balance.

Never point this chemical ether generator toward a storm because this can dam up the orgone and cause very violent weather, even creating a “tidal wave” action somewhere else in the sky. The safest way is to point it vertically straight upward. When the total system is in operation, the energy field should look like Picture #2 and #4 as well as the effect created when lightning approaches the generator similar to the diagrams in Fig. 8, 9, and 10 (termed Lightning # 1,2,3, and 4). On the first day of successful operation one will feel as though an ocean breeze has just come in to cool the land. If you have moved too fast and overdone it, you will feels as if you are underwater. Sounds will also be very intense. These signs indicate that your generator is too powerful; fewer layers should be used in the construction of the oraccu…

There are devices available which can be used when working with the different energies described. You should build a Vitic, which we have used when becoming overcharged with both orgone and DOR. A cold shower also is recommended, followed by use of an Eeman screen and the Vitic; it is the most effective way we have found to reduce the chance of harm from excess orgone, oranur, or DOR. Information on the construction of Eeman screens and the Vitic are available from Borderland Research.

A firm reminder: When working with orgone remember that it is as dangerous as very high voltage electricity. Even an expert can be injured or killed by this force, even when doing everything correctly.

I have decided to make this information available only because no other qualified person made it available to a planet which needs it so badly. Another reason is that there are people using 1-ft diameter metal drain pipes up to 100 ft long and trying to make rain, as well as other types of devices which could harm people. Many of these people have no idea of what they are doing and are causing more harm than good (such as pointing the device in the wrong direction at the wrong time, which can actually create drought conditions).

Even our system has the potential of removing too much orgone energy from the soil and adding too much DOR to the immediate area, so it’s wise to be careful.

At this time we are trying to make an even more advanced type of cloudbuster containing small glass tubes of sea salt and baking soda encircling the middle portion of it, to be used with a more standard cloudbuster to draw the DOR out and slow the Oranur process by directly combining with DOR to produce and replenish fresh orgone for the planet. We have not yet fully succeeded. We do feel, however, that people should read “Born to be Magnetic” (Vol. 1 and 2) by Frances Nixon. I believe that these people have found a way to protect areas from Oranur with the use of sea salt and baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). You could try saturated solutions as well as dry powders in your experiments. Try placing one-inch (or smaller) diameter tubes (2-3 ft long) in running water or buckets of water which should be replaced daily to assist in the removal of DOR and Oranur.

My hope is that by making this information available to the public that it will help to alleviate further destruction of our planet and perhaps save lives.

Since this research was started in 1972 and has been done only in our area, there is no guarantee that anything published here will work as stated since the energies were different and higher then…

Some General Rules for Using Cloudbusters with Needles Attached: This information will be helpful for all ether energy-controlling devices. If you want to make rain, you have to take energy from the West, then move toward the North and stop at NorthEast to cool and condense the water. A cloudbuster in the drawing mode (they do not always draw) moving from West to East in a North direction will tend to make rain. Many other things have to be taken into account, but I am only trying to help you use the ancient chart of Fire, Air, Water and Earth: